Choosing the right bait: a quick guide by fish type
Many anglers focus all their thinking on timing and location and forget that the bait itself can be the whole difference. The general rule: predatory fish key in on the shape and movement of the prey they're used to seeing in that exact spot — not just any shiny lure.
Live bait — strongest but higher-maintenance
- Shrimp (live or fresh): nearly universal, works with almost every bottom-feeding species like mullet, grunter and sobaity.
- Live baitfish: the strongest bait for big predators like grouper and kingfish, since a live fish's natural movement is hard to fake.
- Sea worms: very effective for wary bottom fish, and work well in murky water where sight isn't the main sense in play.
- Small crab: excellent for grouper and fish that feed around rocks and reef.
The downside of live bait is it needs proper storage and transport (a bucket, aeration), and dies quickly in hot weather.
Artificial bait — easier and longer-lasting
- Metal jigs: mimic a fleeing baitfish at speed — for fast predators.
- Soft plastics: a practical stand-in for shrimp or small fish that won't die and stores easily.
Artificial bait is better when you're moving around a lot or casting, but it takes more skill in how you work it to convince the fish.
3 common mistakes that cost you the catch
- Bait too big for a small-mouthed fish — like putting a whole shrimp on for a small grunter: it'll nibble the tip and leave the rest.
- Ignoring water clarity — in clear water, go smaller and less flashy; in murky water, lean on scent (worms, crab) over looks.
- Sticking with the same bait all day — if nothing's biting half an hour into an active window, try a different bait before changing spots.
Every fish in the tool's "Fish & seasons" tab lists its preferred bait next to it, based on its mouth type and behavior — use it as a starting point and adjust for your own spot.